Mandelic acid or phenylglycolic acid is the first representative of aromatic fatty hydroxy acids. It exists in two enantiomeric optically active forms (R and S), as well as in racemic optically inactive (RS) form (known as paramindal acid). The latter was obtained by Winkler, who received it by heating raw bitter-almond oil with hydrochloric acid.
The effect of almond acid in cosmetics
Almond acid, like other fruit acids, is an excellent revitalizer: it stimulates collagen synthesis and activates the regeneration of the dermis at the cellular level. The effects of mandelic acid are quite versatile:
Keratolytic (exfoliating) action — destroying the connection between the individual scales of the stratum corneum of the epidermis, almond acid promotes the rapid regeneration of young skin;
The comedolytic effect is achieved with the help of total exfoliation of the stratum corneum of the epidermis in the area of the sebaceous glands, as well as by dissolving comedones when almond acid gets into the enlarged pores;
Bactericidal action: almond acid, it copes well with a wide range of bacteria, including propionic — those that cause acne.
Although mandelic acid is comparable to other AHA, like glycolic or lactic acid, it is still softer and safer. The fact is that mandelic acid molecules are larger than those of other AHAs, so it penetrates the skin less, does not irritate it, and does not cause burns.
